May 11, 2009
I’m on a ferry headed back down the Norwegian coast, having rounded Nordkapp on Sunday. Well actually, I’m once again sitting in the library at Hammerfest, where just a few days ago I was composing my last post. Just down the block, the MS Nordkapp, a coastal steamer from the Hurtigruten line, has let us disembark just long enough for a bite to eat, giving me time to jump on a computer. The trip from here held many memories and places that I want to share. From the people and their stories, to the conditions and excitement I experienced rounding the most northern tip Europe and seeing the famous Nordkapp. The day I rounded it was a quiet day and the swell was easily four meters high, the clapotis was exciting and I was thrilled. It was literally seven hours before I even spotted a place I could have landed safely, so it reinforced a hard judgment call I made to end this phase of the expedition following a rounding of Nordkapp. I talked with many people, including local fisherman, local kayakers, and Mel. The coast to the east of Nordkapp is extreme and, at this time of year, particulary hazardous. With very long crossings, unpredictable weather, and rugged coastline, and me paddling solo, I made the decision to end the journey after Nordkapp. To go further, simply for the sake of reaching Kirkenes, would have been more risk than I as a solo paddler wanted to take. I’m very proud of what I’ve been able to accomplish in the expedition to date, and making this decision was actually easier than I expected. Sometimes judgments have to be made to alter a course or trip and we always caution our clients about the dangers of “destination-itus” or focusing on a destination while ignoring the changing environmental conditions. Goteberg to Nordkapp is an accomplishment I can look at with fondness and without an ounce of regret.
Now to head home. After seeing the Hurtigruten ferry so many times on my way north, it’s a simple pleasure to be on it revisiting many of the places I passed in the kayak. After cruising to Bodo, it will be an overnight train to Stravanger, then a day or so to sort gear and to visit with my friends Erling and Sonja. Then it’s off to Oslo to catch a flight home to Duke (an over-energized English Pointer) and the love of my life, Mel. I do have a story to tell about the last days on the water and I’ll try to get that to you after I reach Stravanger.
Thanks to all of you, who been following this journey.
Cheers, Mark
