May 1, 2009
Hard Paddling and Holidays
Most people who know me know that I’m not a morning person, which is why paddling this time of year in the Arctic is such a wonderful experience. I can get on the water somewhat late by many people’s standards, and then paddle until 9 or 10 pm or later. Knowing I had a bit over 30 nautical miles to cover to get to Tromso, I was confident that I could get on the water by 9:30 or so and be there by 8 pm or so. Of course after getting up a bit late and having that one last cup of coffee it was 1010 before I was paddling away. The route to Tromso from Finnsness is beautiful and sheltered, but the narrow fjords come with a price–current. Up until now, I’ve been lucky with the currents, but on April 30th, I literally paddled against the current all day. Most times, it was barely noticeable, except for that extra ache in my obliques and lower back. Often I was able to paddle in the eddies next to the coastline, but the result was that I didn’t get to the kayak club buildings until after 9 pm. I was very tired, but in some ways proud that I managed. The one tricky bit was past a pretty island called Ryoy where I was warned not to stop because a herd of musk-ox lived there and were very agressive. The island restricts an already narrow passageway, so the currents can get very strong. When I arrived and saw the way the buoy was leaning against the current, I knew I had a challenge. But the eddies were nice near the rocks of the island and it was a quick ferry glide over the top of the channel when I got there.
May 1st is a national holiday here, and with a good weather forecast a lot of people have headed out of town. But the local kayak club came to my rescue let me bunk down in one of their boathouses along the shore. Then a wonderfully patient man named Georg rallied at 10 pm to bring me a key for the building, take me to a grocery store and restaurant, and deliver some very detailed maps that were left by a club member named Bernt who works for the Norwegian Arctic Institute.
The morning brought a number of kayak club members heading out for the day. I think I startled the first couple when I stumble out of the attic looking a bit rough, but it’s always great to talk with sea kayakers. My intention was to continue paddling on May 1, but I was feeling a bit under the weather so I took the day to recuperate and get strong for a good push into Finnmark, that northern part of Norway with so many of the challenges and mysteries I’ve been thinking about for weeks. I’m also trying hard at this point to be able to fly home to my family a little bit sooner.
I may or may not be able to update this blog for a while, but follow my progress on the satellite tracking page. Wish me good luck and good weather (little or no winds!!).
Mark
