April 29, 2009
After the challenging days leading to getting across Vestfjorden to meet Mia in Lodingen, I’ve had several fantastic days. The trip up the Tjeldsundet from Lodingen to Harstad was about 35 nautical miles and couldn’t have been a better day. The wind settled down, the tide was right, the company was excellent and about two hours south of our destination, we had another delightful surprise. A paddler joined us in a greenland-style boat, using a greenland paddle. His name is Ola Loftingsmo and he’s a kind and interesting man, a lieutenant commander in the Navy, he is very much in love with being here north of the Arctic Circle. As it turns out, a lot of the inspiration here in greenland paddling and technique comes from two deserving individuals. One, Karl Markusen, is the owner of the camp I stayed at. He actually competed in Greenland a few years ago and raced against Dubside. He knows our friend (and greenland champ) Alison Sigethy, her husband Tom and friend James. Another example of the world being small. We arrived about 8:30 at night and he showed me the cabin, where a pot of a traditional Sami stew made with moose meat was waiting for me. I ate until I nearly burst. This, I found out, was the product of his wonderful wife’s work, a women who is also a budding artist. The next day Karl ran me into town where I visited a great kayak shop, bought a tent, wrote postcards home and just relaxed. That evening, we drank beer! A group from the club got together and we talked. About the trip, about Nordkapp, about greenland paddling, about politics. Imagine a group of fanatic paddlers drinking beer and telling war stories…that was us and it was perfect. Karl then told me that his very good friend,Orgen Karlsen, was going to join me Wednesday morning to paddle to a town called Finnsnes. Orgen is an artist in the true sense of the word. Descended from a Sami, he has an interest in the arts and crafts of indigenous peoples. His east greenland boats are beautiful, his paddles are excellent and he also builds traditional bows and arrows. He’s tanned reindeer, made Sami clothing, used to race sled dogs, and builds didgeredoo’s that have been recognized by Australian aborigines for his work. When a group of Australian aborigines were Europe on tour, they had their instruments stolen. Knowing that Orgen built these instruments, a friend who collected them donated the instruments to the performing group, saving the tour. The musicians recognized the quality of his work and invited him to visit them in their home. So Orgen spent a month living in the bush playing didgeredoos with aboriginal peoples. Karl and Orgen both have lovely families who took me into their homes and made me feel welcomed. Our paddle together was somewhat short, but very relaxing and again, it was the personal connection that was my reward. As I move further north, I’m told to expect a more exposed and remote area, nature more “naked”.
The trip is moving now into a new and possibly final phase — less contact, longer crossings, more challenge. I feel strong and up to the challenge, but that’s the result of very many elements coming together. First and foremost is the love and support from home, my loving partner and wife, Mel who encouraged me in my darkest hour. My father and sister who are such strong cheerleaders, all of the sponsors who’ve given their trust and equipment, and the wonderful network of Norwegians, kayakers and nonkayakers alike, who’ve provided hospitality, shelter, advice, and interest in this project.
Tusen Takk! (a thousand thanks) Mark
