Saturday, April 25
Call it karma, but after a great start, I’ve run into a tough stretch.
One day crossing a fjord called Folda, I got hit by a breaking wave I didn’t see coming and suddenly was upside down. At least I found I can roll a fully loaded kayak in very rough seas. It was frustrating more than anything, but the adrenaline did kick in, as I had four more miles to go on that crossing.
The next day, was beautiful paddling and I made about 30 nautical miles, but when I set up camp, both of my tent poles snapped. Of course, that part of the repair kit was what was missing. I managed to jury rig a repair using a finger-sized sam splint. At least it stayed up during a windy night. Of course, at about 5 a.m. I woke to a load pop and discovered yet another break.
If that wasn’t bad enough, I had to stay in camp another day due to high winds. But on Saturday morning, I decided to head to Lodingen, where a kayaker named Mia had graciously offered to rescue me from my plight. The weather forecast was for light winds in the morning and strong breeze (21 knots or so) by midday. I doubted the tent would stay up in that wind so I thought I’d get an early start. Turns out midday meant 8:15 a.m. as I started into very strong wind. Mostly it was behind me, but I paddled for nearly eight hours without stopping in seas often as high as 10 feet from trough to wave top. It was the single hardest day of paddling I’ve ever done. Really, I shouldn’t have been on the water, but I was without shelter…it was a tough call and I had some scary moments, but thinking about Mel pulled me through — I wanted to get home to tell that story!
Got here to Mia’s about 5:00 p.m. and jumped right into a shower followed by dinner shortly afterward. She paddles an Anas Acuta and is going to accompany me to Harstad tomorrow, where a kayak club member named Karl is going to put me up in one of his cabins and help me “solve my problems!”
Once again, the Norwegian kayaking community has opened their hearts and homes to me and it’s simply overwhelming.
None of this would be possible if it weren’t for the constant support and friendship I’ve gotten from Erling Brox. If it weren’t for his weather updates by text, his phone calls to check my spirits, his calling and e-mailing ahead for folks like Mia and Karl, I’d never be able to achieve this adventure. He’s invaluable and I can’t thank him enough.
Mark
Mark, It’s amazing to see the progress you’ve made in a month! The sights and stories of your trip are incredible to experience vicariously. Fair winds and following seas on your solo leg of the expedition. I look forward to your return and hearing more about the trip. Until then, we’re keeping an eye on your home waters for you.
Nate